If you've been paying even a little bit of attention, you're already aware that forever chemicals and microplastics are the bad guys on the surfaces with which we cook and store food.
It's intuitive enough to avoid putting plastic takeout containers in the microwave to reheat your leftovers, but with cooking pots and pans, it can be trickier to differentiate what's toxic from what's safe. Are all nonstick pans bad, now?
Microplastics can be found in dozens of common kitchen tools, including cookware.
Pots and pans can be a big investment, especially if you're considering chucking your whole inventory out of an abundance of caution and starting over. The good news is, the durability of most nontoxic cookware makes for a one-last-time purchase.
With help from Chef McKenzie Dokter, instructor at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, here's everything you need to know about understanding toxins in cookware, and considerations for various types of nontoxic cookware.
What are toxins in cookware?
Teflon and chemical-coated cookware can be hazardous if not used properly.
First, it's important to understand the terminology when referencing nontoxic cookware. While certain classic materials such as stainless steel and cast iron have always been nontoxic, nonstick cookware has made for a more confusing landscape for understanding which products may contain harmful chemicals and which don't.
Buying nontoxic cookware doesn't mean you can never use nonstick pans again, but "look for ceramic-coated pans, or PFAS-free, Teflon alternatives," says Dokter.
PFAS stands for "perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances," the blanket terminology for what we now understand to be "forever chemicals," or substances that don't easily break down and can stay in the human body when ingested or absorbed, which can make you sick, or worse. Other common chemicals that are part of what constitutes PFAS are perfluorooctanoic acid, perfluorooctane sulfonate and polytetrafluoroethylene.
Nonstick cookware is unquestionably easy to use but there are limitations when cooking and safety concerns to consider.
These are the chemicals that help create a nonstick surface on many types and brands of nonstick pans. Unless you are absolutely fastidious about how you handle, clean and store nonstick pans that contain these substances, the best practice is to avoid using them altogether. Many brands now indicate "PFAS-free" on their packaging, and not every brand that used to use these chemicals still does. If you're not sure, and you've had a nonstick pan for more than a few years, it may be time to part ways and start fresh, especially if there's evidence of the nonstick coating shredding or chipping.
Types of nontoxic cookware
What might work best for you in the realm of nontoxic cookware is a matter of how you typically employ your everyday pots and pans. "Matching your cookware to your specific dishes and routine can greatly enhance your cooking experience," says Dokter. "Consider durability, heat performance, maintenance needs, and how the cookware suits your cooking style and budget."
Here, we break down four of the most common types of nontoxic cookware: cast iron, stainless steel, enamel-coated and ceramic and detail their benefits and challenges, brands to seek, average cost and durability.
Cast iron cookware
What is cast iron?
Cast iron is a metal alloy that's composed mainly of iron, manufactured with other scrap metals and materials, particularly carbon. (No plastic in sight!)
Benefits of cast iron cookware: "Cast iron holds heat really well, which makes for super even cooking, and when you season it properly, it develops a natural non-stick surface that just gets better over time," says Dokter. "It's also incredibly versatile: you can use it on the stovetop, throw it in the oven, or even take it over a campfire if you're feeling adventurous."
Cast iron is nontoxic and a top pick for searing steaks and chicken.
Cast iron is great for a multitude of uses, but really shines for searing proteins to develop a caramelized crust, and baking bread. Despite its heft, many excellent brands are inexpensive, and cast iron's durability is basically lifelong, as long as you handle it appropriately.
Challenges of cast iron cookware
"It's definitely on the heavier side, which can make handling a bit tricky, and it needs regular seasoning to maintain its nonstick surface," says Dokter. "Seasoning" isn't a complicated process but cleaning and maintaining a cast iron pan takes conscientiousness at the very least, and a little more effort than other types of cookware. If you're not committed to the process, the cast iron surface can easily become adhesive, and can even rust.
If left to simmer for too long, acidic foods can strip cast-iron of its cast-iron enamel.
Cast iron isn't necessarily a one-stop shop, either, and isn't the best choice for every purpose. According to Dokter, "acidic foods like tomatoes or vinegar-based sauces can react with it, which might affect the flavor and the pan's surface."
Who is cast iron good for?
Most chefs and home cooks will tell you that everyone should have one reliable cast-iron skillet in their cupboard and we agree. Cast iron is not only versatile and optimal for searing meat and potatoes, it's cheap, with quality pans starting at about $25. Because it's so durable, cast-iron is also a good cookware to bring camping or use on the grill.
Seasoning a cast-iron pan will help it develop a natural nonstick property.
- Brands we like: Lodge, Cuisinart, Backcountry
- Average cost: $25 for a 9- to 10-inch skillet
- How long they last: Decades or more when maintained appropriately
Stainless-steel cookware
Stainless steel is what you'll find in most professional kitchens.
What is stainless steel?
Like cast iron, stainless steel is also an iron alloy, whose main component beyond iron is chromium, which prevents rust and most discoloration, hence its "stainless" aspect.
Benefits of stainless steel cookware
"Stainless steel pans are super durable and heat up evenly, which makes them great for browning and deglazing," says Dokter. "They're also non-reactive," so compared to cast iron, "you can cook acidic foods without worrying about any weird flavors."
Stainless steel pans are substantial but generally not as heavy as cast iron, if maneuverability is important to you. Stainless steel is excellent for searing and, because it isn't nonstick in nature, it's great for making pan sauces from the caramelized bits and drippings that stay behind.
Baking soda and vinegar will remove even the most baked-on cookware stains.
Challenges of stainless steel cookware
If you're not accustomed to cooking without a nonstick surface, stainless steel pans may come with a steep learning curve for home cooks. "They can stick if you don't preheat or oil them properly, so good technique really matters when you're searing," says Dokter, which can make them especially complicated for adhesive foods such as eggs or pancakes, or more delicate proteins like seafood.
"They might also need a little extra care to keep them from discoloring over time," says Dokter, although many stainless steel pans are dishwasher safe, making them relatively easy to care for. Stainless steel can also be more on the expensive side. Some lower cost options are available but on average, a high quality, stainless steel pan may have a price tag double or more of that for a good cast iron skillet.
Food tends to stick to stainless steel pans more than some other materials.
Who is stainless steel cookware good for?
While stainless steel is less forgiving than some non-stickier cookware materials, it's also one of the more versatile. Every home cook ought to own at least one or two stainless steel frying pans in addition to a stockpot or saucepan.
- Brands we like: All-Clad, Made In, Misen, Calphalon, Tramontina
- Average cost: $100 or more for a 9- to 10-inch pan
- How long they last: Decades or more when maintained appropriately
Enamel-coated cookware
Dutch ovens are the most popular type of enamel-coated cookware.
What is enamel-coated cookware?: Typically applied to a cast iron base, enamel is a coating made of glass that is toxin-free and makes for a smoother, non-porous surface than that of a traditional cast iron pan. (Enamel-coated pans are not considered nonstick, however.) Enamel-coated pans are available in frying pan or skillet styles, but people generally associate enamel coating with Dutch ovens. Some brands make cast iron pots and pans that are enameled on the outside but maintain the non-enameled cast iron cooking surface. (In this section we're speaking about those that have an enamel cooking surface.)
French kitchen brands such as Staub and Le Creuset specialize in enamel-coated cookware.
Benefits of enamel-coated cookware:
Because enamel-coated pans have a cast iron base, the benefits of cast iron also apply here: especially holding and distributing heat. "Plus, the non-reactive surface makes it perfect for slow cooking," says Dokter, and can handle some of the acidic foods that cast iron alone cannot. "It's also stylish enough to go straight from the stovetop to the table," she says, giving it additional purpose beyond what most other pots and pans have. Compared to cast iron, enamel-coated pans are also much easier to clean and don't require seasoning.
Read more: The Best Dutch Ovens: Budget Picks, Luxury Pots and Seasonal Styles
Challenges of enamel-coated cookware:
"Enamel-coated pots and pans are typically heavy, and if mishandled, the enamel can chip," says Dokter. The enamel coating may not contain microplastics but chipped enamel still isn't something you want to ingest. "And while enamel is durable, it's best to avoid cooking on ultra-high heat because it can cause the enamel to degrade, discolor or even crack over time," says Dokter. They also tend to be more expensive than other types of cookware, especially compared to the affordability of plain cast iron.
Avoid the dishwasher when cleaning enamel cookware.
Who is enamel cookware good for?
A Dutch oven is one of the most beloved pieces of cookware and there isn't a cooking level that prohibits using one. The pots are used to make soups and stews, slow braised meats, sourdough bread and much more. If you're going to choose one piece of enamel cookware to add to your collection, the Dutch oven should be it.
- Brands we like: Staub, Lodge, Le Creuset, Milo, Caraway
- Average cost: Varies widely, but about $100 to $175 on average for a quality Dutch oven
- How long they last: Decades or more when maintained appropriately
Ceramic cookware
Enamel cookware has become a popular alternative to Teflon or chemical-coated nonstick pans.
What is ceramic cookware?
The next generation of nonstick, ceramic pans feature a nonstick coating over a metal base, usually aluminum or stainless steel. The ceramic coating is a gel made from particulate matter baked onto the surface of the pan that doesn't contain PFAS.
Benefits of ceramic cookware:
The good news is, there's still a place for nonstick cookware in our kitchens, for those who rely upon it. "Nonstick pans are great for delicate foods like eggs, pancakes and fish because they keep things from sticking," says Dokter. "Plus, you don't need as much oil since the nonstick surface does most of the work. Ceramic pans have a nontoxic surface, heat up fast and give you even heat." Because of their nonstick surface, ceramic pans are also the easiest to clean of the nontoxic options.
Challenges of ceramic cookware
Because the surface is so slick, it's difficult to get a hard sear on certain foods for a caramelized crust. Ceramic pans may be useful in your cooking repertoire but they aren't appropriate for every job. Like other nonstick pans, "coatings may degrade over time with high heat or abrasive cleaning, and they often require more gentle care," says Dokter, and their lightweight nature isn't intended for lifetime use. They can be relatively expensive for pans that you may have to replace every few years.
Ceramic cookware scratches easily and it might not last as long as your cast-iron or steel pans.
Who is ceramic cookware good for?
Ceramic cookware is forgiving and great for beginners. It's also the closest replacement for chemical-coated or Teflon cookware. If you're worried about the chemicals associated with those types pf pans, adding ceramic skillets to your cookware rack is a good option.